Salud de La Paz

Sunny and warm.. people and cars (in all shapes and colours) everywhere... and three Norwegian chicas with a big smile on their faces. After some days in the country side, we were actually glad to see what seems like total chaos in the streets. We're sure there is a system to it somewhere ;)..

Eager to explore the opportunities in this city has to offer, we immediately signed up for the bike ride on the World's most dangerous road! :) Starting at 4700 meters above sea level and ending at 1100 after 64 km this is both an enjoyable and thrilling ride.

La Paz is not the most beautiful city we've seen, but it has got pulse... It's a living city! Food stalls where you can get fresh fruit juice, nuts, empanadas and deep fried pork amongst other things.
Markets selling everything from toothbrushes, washing up liquids, tools, underwear, trousers, tools and snacks. Going to the supermarket is a waste of time!

We really enjoyed our days here. Maybe a little bit influenced by our endulgement into luxury?!.. :) Dining and wining in good restaurants - we recommend llama meat with Bolivan Malbec wine. Staying in a spacious hotel room with hot shower and beyond comfortable beds and spa treatments - because we deserve it :).

However, staying in a hotel does not invite to meet other backpackers. Luckily we had met Meriem on the bus from Copacabana and she did a really good job introducing us for other backpackers and La Paz by night. Behind the doors of a budget hostel we found a really cool  bar and danced the night away! :)

Lake Titicaca part II - The Happy Ending

Some people say that the grass is greener on the other side.. We don't know about that, but we are almost certain that Lake Titicaca is bluer on the Bolivian side :). Or maybe we were just so happy to get a way from Puno? :))

After 3 hour by bus to Copacabana and a 1 1/2 hour boat trip we arrived at Isla del Sol - a charming little island situated 4000 meters above sea level and our spot for rest and recreation.

Since we basically been hiking for the last two weeks, we let a couple of donkeys carry our backpacks up the 500 steps to the pueblo, Yumani. Puh! It sure was good exercise for thighs and bums to climb the steps anyway. We can`t imagine how superfit we will be after this trip! :)
Finding a place to stay was not a problem at all - yeeyy - we even got a discount!:) Now it was time to relax and enjoy the sunset accompanied by a couple of beers.

Isla del Sol really lives up to it`s name and it has great views of the Cordillera Real mountain range.



Breakfast with a view

We surely recommend going here - it is good place to chill out for a couple of days - or to put it in another way...to get ready for the vibrant city life of La Paz! :)

"Home"-stay

After some Pisco sours we left Cuzco on Saturday, eager to get to know the Peruvian culture better. Since we are on our way to Bolivia, we found out that we could stop in Puno and explore the Peruvian islands of Lake Titicaca: Uros, Amantani and Taquile. We had heard that homestay was a good way to get to know Peruvian way of living, and that Amantani was the place! The idea of a homestay is to live together with the family, have meals together, and to see the everyday life of a family living on a Peruvian island.

Independent travellers as we are, we went to the port in Puno, and decided to go by boat to all the three islands, and find a family on Amantani and spend the night there. Rumours said that people would be waiting for us, happy to let us stay in their house and share their life story with us. Well, we sholdn't trust rumours...that`s for sure!

Disappointment #1: When we arrived on the island, there was no warm welcome. Actually nobody was there.
But hey, the captain was "nice" and helped us to find a place (that turned out to be his own family's house).

After a small hike, with heavy backpacks (not at ALL prepared for more hiking at this time) we arrived at the house. The room was ok (actually better than what we expected - after all this is an old-fashioned island).

Disappointment #2: Hungry and full of hope in our eyes, we went down for lunch. But where is the family?
Three bowls of soup, three plates with rice and fried cheese and three teacups waited for us in a room outside the house. Hmm, ok, maybe the family already had lunch. We will probably meet them for dinner, we thought.

Disappointment #3: We had read about inca ruins, and even if nothing can be compared to Machu Picchu, we didn't want to miss a walk to the top of the island. But where are the ruins? Are they the fences around the fields? And were are all the other tourists? This is after all one of the highlights of Amantani. Look, there is a guy waving at us! This was neither a local or a tourist, but a weird Canadian that lived alone in a tent on the top of the island. All he wanted from us was an English book. The view was good though...

On our way down we hooked up with two guys from York and had a beer at the only (open) café on the island. The sun was shining, the beer was good and we were having a jolly good time. Hm.. Maybe Amantani isn't too bad after all!?


Disappointment #4: Back in the house getting dressed for dinner at 7 pm, a knock on the door and we jumped in excitement for the evening to come. Instead of invitation to join the familiy for dinner, we met a tray with three bowls of soup in the door. What!? Dinner in the bedroom!? Speechless we just watched the master of the house bringing in the three more plates with rice and vegetables (left overs from lunch). Door was slammed in our faces ...and we were left with silence. The food was cold and tasteless. Need we say more?

Disappointment #5: Since the family was not interested in our company and it was still early in the evening, we decided to go out for a beer. We also heard that there was supposed to be a Peña party (traditional dance show) by the main square and asked the lady in the house. She told us that there was no party due to few tourists. We decided to check out the main square anyway. Maybe the local pub was still open and we would reunite with our British friends? Full of excitement and hope (again) we marched to the main square. We met noone on the way, noone at the square, the pub was closed - the only thing we found was.. complete silence... We surrendered and went to bed. At 9 pm.

Disappointment #6: The next day we found that the Peña party actually had taken place.

Disappointment #7: Breakfast consisted of 20 slices of bread (both fried and non fried)... and that was it. No butter, no spread, no eggs, no ham, no cheese.. no nothing. After asking a couple of times we got a tiny little bit of jam. Enough to one slice...

Conclusion: we still don't know anything about the Peruvian way of living. The only thing we do know: don't go live with the captain!

The Inca trail to Machu Picchu

One foot in front of the other.. veeery slooowly.. Heart is pounding like crazy and the headache is getting heavier and heavier..  Are we there yet? It`s the second day of the Inca trail and a couple of hours later we reach the highest point of the trail, the Dead Woman`s pass, 4215 meters above sea level. Puh!! Trekking in high altitudes is indeed tougher than we imagined, it sure does something to your body.. but WOW... what a beautiful landscape!! It`s unbelievably green and flowers in yellow, pink and blue are are blinking to us along the trek. Amazing! :) Spiders, donkeys, llamas and deers are some of the creatures we meet (in addition to "a couple of" tourists.. ;)).

We are safely led by our guides Juvenal and Amadeo, who tell us about the history of the Incas and the Inca ruins we pass with great enthusiasm (and happily answer our questions). We understand by their knowledge that they are truly dedicated to their job.

When we reach the camp the porters greet us with a big smile and applause. However, it is they who deserve a big applause. The humble and service minded porters carry all the equipment, water, food and some of the group`s personal stuff. With 25 kg on their backs they basically run pass us as we trek in slow motion (fighting to survive:)) to have the camp site ready for us. Can`t say how impressed we are! :)

That also counts for the food. Pancakes, porrige, omelette and toast make out a good start on a long day of trekking. Short time after arrival to camp we receive a delicious three course dinner/lunch. They get the most out of the ingredients and not even once did we get the same dish. They even baked a cake as a gift for us on the last night!

After 4 days of trekking (and 45 km!) we are at the final destination of our trek - the lost city of the Incas: Machu Picchu!! It reveals itself slowly as the heavy fog disappears - the sight is stunning! :))

Happy and proud to have completed the Inca trail trek we gather with our group for lunch and pisco sour (grape brandy with lemon and sugar - yummie) in Aguas Calientes before we head back to Cusco.

The trek is an absolute "must do" if you ever visit Peru. It´s just amazing! Unfortunately it turned out to be an enourmous survival test for some of us due to altitude sickness. Try trekking at high altitudes 8-10 hours for 2 days with nausea, headache and ..you know what.. without any food in your stomach. Proud of you, Tonje!!! :))

To get back in business and to organise the next few days we are taking a "resting day" in Cusco. A good opportunity to meet up with our fellow trekkers and consume more of the pisco sour ;).

Next destination: Lake Titicaca! :)

Bienvenidos a Peru

..og lokaltid er 20.10... nei nei.. helt feil.. klokka er 02.10, og vi har vært paa reisefot i 23 timer! Men.. hvem er han lille karen med solbriller og et norsk flagg.. Ernesto! :)) Vaare allierte i Lima har sendt en privat sjaaför for aa hente oss. Etter en kort kjöretur var vi hjemme hos Gro og Kjetil som tok oss hjertelig imot. Nyoppredd seng var akkurat det vi trengte - vi sovnet umiddelbart.

Oppholdet i Lima er vel ikke heelt representativt for en backpacker i Sor Amerika - bagelfrokost, Starbucks kaffe, privat sjaaför og en seng i byens fineste strök. Rut ble saa omtaaket av den plutselige luksusen at hun et öyeblikk trodde vi var i Europa! Alle kan ta feil ;)..

Vi hadde to fine dager i Lima med sightseeing og god mat (peruansk mat er virkelig aa anbefale). Tusen takk, Gro og Kjetil! :)

Barranco i Lima

Vi er idylliske Cusco i skrivende stund og inka trail til Machu Picchu venter paa oss i morgen. Spent paa hvordan det skal gaa med hoyden. Kryss fingre og tær for oss :).

...oss som fortsatt venter på tur!

Da er første pulje sendt avgårde, og første dokumenterte bilde på plass!
Me håper at alt har gått etter planen og at 3 blide, men sikkert litt slitne jenter snart ankjem første destinasjon.

Tilbake sit me som fortsatt venter på at turen skal komme til oss. Men om akkurat 1mnd, 3. desember, sit også eg på flyet; på veg til Santiago! Der møter eg globetrottarane for så å ta vegen over grensa mot Mendoza og Argentina.

Alvoret har så vidt begynnt å gå opp for meg; kun 4 veker til å få unda:

• vaksinasjoner
• tømme Nomaden for alt av hendig reisestæsj
• pakking ..på smartast mogleg vis (øvelse gjer mester!)
• komme gjennom 1400 Lonely Planet sider
• julepresesanger
• bursdagspresenger
• julebord
• julefester
• nok julegraut til at eg blir lei det
• rekke å glede meg
• skjønne alvoret?!

Men innimellom slaga skal eg passe på å sitte her og nyte oppdateringane fra Rut, Tonje og Cathrine - Kos dikka! :-)

Renate - fortsatt godt plassert heime i kulda, men om 1mnd skal lua kastast!

Klar.. ferdig..REIS! :)

Startskuddet har gått og Sør-Amerika 2010 er en realitet!! *fanfare*

Er så oppspilt at det er helt umulig å sove. Vandrer hvileløst frem og tilbake, pakker ut.. og pakker ned. Hm, har vi husket alt?? Det vil tiden vise :)..


Om få timer er første pulje (Tonje, Rut og Cathrine) på vei. Da kan vi kan legge alt av jobbstress, regnvær og annet gruff bak oss.. og bare nyte livet og ta inn det vi kan av gode opplevelser og inntrykk.

Første stopp er Lima hvor vi blir noen dager før vi setter kursen mot Cusco for å gå Inca trail til Machu Picchu.

Vi gleder oss SINNSYKT! :)

 PS: hvis noen lurer på hvor Renate blir av, så er det ingen grunn til panikk - vi har ALT under kontroll (vi liker i alle fall å tro det;)). Renate kommer og møter oss i Santiago 4.desember. Så nå vet dere det også ;)...



Første pulje i Sør-Amerika 2010